You can make pizza at home if you have an oven that will break 500F. And if you can, you should. Its easy to make good pizza and its fun. You need a pizza stone, peel, and a good stand mixer to do the kneading. Some things I have learned over time.
- Start with margherita (tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil). Once you make a good margherita you will realize there is not much point in making anything else.
- Use mozzarella di bufalo. It truly makes a big difference (naturally though there is variation in quality.)
- To make the sauce, use canned, peeled, san marzano tomatoes, remove the seeds and puree. Simmer in a skillet until there is no visible water pooling in the sauce and it sticks to a spoon. This takes longer than you would expect so be patient. (You do this while the dough is rising.) Add only salt. No garlic, no onion, etc.
- No-knead dough recipes are popular recently and they work for many things but not pizza dough. Yes it is convenient, but there is a simple reason it doesn’t work. To form gluten without kneading you add a lot more water than you normally would. Pizza cooks very fast. That short time is not enough to get enough moisture out of the dough to get the bite that you want on the edges. Water holds the temperature of the dough down because water cannot be raised above boiling temperature (think about it.)


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October 11, 2009 at 8:13 am
Noah Yetter
Actually no-knead dough works just fine, it just doesn’t get crispy. Which, IMO, pizza crust shouldn’t be in the first place.
October 11, 2009 at 8:27 pm
gappy
Jeff,
very interesting, esp 4. One minor correction: it’s “mozzarella di bufalA”. In italian, bufalo is the male, bufala is the female of the buffalo. Costco carries mozzarella di bufala made by Garofalo, which is an authentic maker located in the Caserta region. It’s a bit watery but not bad. For those living in the NYC area, Arthur Avenue has a shop (“Casa della Mozzarella”) that makes good mozzarella in-house.
I find pizze made in America uniformly atrocious. It’s definitely not easy to make/eat a good pizza. In my quest, I’ve tried California (Bay Area), Chicago, New Haven, New York. A decent pizzeria in Naples or even Rome can do better. The only exception to the rule is “Kest’e'”, a newly opened pizzeria on Bleeker st., close to NYU. It’s operated by first-generation Italians, and uses pristine ingredients. I am not sure it will last, though.
October 11, 2009 at 9:52 pm
jeff
Have you been to la pizza fresca in gramercy park?
October 11, 2009 at 9:56 pm
gappy
ha-ha, as soon as I tried to be a smartass on pizza (just because I am Italian), you got me. No, I haven’t tried it, although I have checked a good number of pizzerie in Manhattan. I’ll try it as soon as possible.
October 11, 2009 at 10:18 pm
jeff
let me know what you think. i think it is very good.
and thanks for the Costco tip.
October 24, 2009 at 10:08 am
eastcoast
Looks Brilliant!!! Don’t forget to add some Chilly!
Cheers, Peter
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